Post trip thoughts about Boston and Cape Cod

I discovered almost as much about me this trip as I did about the area in which I was a child. In no particular order of importance or relevance, those realizations/discoveries are below.

• Apparently walking in sandals and flip-flops for decades has rendered me incapable of walking  in rubber-soled shoes on carpet. When I tripped over my own feet three times during our stay in Boston, Barbara got a bit nervous and I was compelled to do some serious analysis of the events. I was wearing my Brooks' running (well, in my case, walking) shoes so balance was not the issue. I walked for 4-5 hours each day on Boston's always changing pavement styles without stumbling once; it was only in the hotel that I fell. I deduced the difference was carpet. I live in a non-carpet house and almost no one i know has carpet - tile and hardwood floors are most common. My realization was that my sandal years had not induced me to lift my feet too much when I walk, consequently when I "slid" my feet on carpet, the rubber soled Brooks did not cooperate and BOOM! So, I spent the cape Cod portion of the trip muttering "Lift Feet" to myself when ever we encountered carpet. I am sure some folk thought I was demented or mumbling a spell!
• I need to be hydrated. The two mornings, I neglected to bring water with me, I got snappy and cranky. my good humor returned almost immediately after consuming liquid.
• I wonder how people who don't read exits on rainy days in a small condo. One reason Barbara and I vacation well together is that each of can disappear into  the printed words for long stretches of time. How incomparably fortunate we are that we can sit/sprawl in the same room for hours with our noses in books. 
• I function much better when I begin my day with a protein-based breakfast rather than a waffle-based one. 
• Though hugely overweight, I can walk for hours on mostly level ground; it's stairs and steps that slow me down. However, as Sheila has noted in the past, by the time a week has passed, those same stairs are no impediment, my leg muscles have reawakened themselves…just in time for me to return to the land of one-floor houses.
• I prefer staying in a place with a full working kitchen rather than spending a week with a microwave and a toaster. I have no idea how traveling sales people exist comfortably.
• Waiters, desk clerks and cashiers seem really surprised when you talk with them rather than at them. How sad is that! I suppose my tendency to chat with them is a remnant of my years as a waitress and cashier.
• After 4-5 days, I have to gird my loins to accept with patient good nature someone else driving me around everywhere. I'm sure it is a personal control issue, rather than a personality one. Or it's evidence of my decades of independence influencing my actions, like my reluctance to ask for help. 
• Sofa beds have improved immensely since I last slept on one 20 years ago!
• Beginning any day with a swan sighting is always a blessing!
• I have to admit to being a Floridian. I was aghast that folks were on the whale watch in shorts and t-shirts! My blood has definitely thinned.
• I LOVE the ocean! That instant when the bow spray hit my face on the ride out to see the whales and my tongue tasted salt water plunged me into one of those glow moments when time is suspended and you're just really, really happy!
• Barbara and I can disagree and still grin.
• I don't miss snow, but I do miss chilly air. I was so comfortable this trip, then I walked off the plane in Jax and thought, "Yikes! I'm in a sauna!" and grimaced. 
• Never leave home without your binoculars!
• Always check for a corkscrew before visiting a vineyard!

Logan to Hartsfield-Jackson to Home

We rose at 6, finished off most of the food in the condo, leaving only a couple of tomatoes, a bagel, some butter and a Snapple. Good food planning on our part.


Heading to Logan was easy. We made the right decision to travel so early and caught the city skyline clear enough to bid it "good bye."  

Logan was packed, as always. Barbara got her flight changed to mine (though a few rows behind me) and her relief at no longer having a time crunch to make her Brazil connection was obvious. The Delta Sky Club was a welcome haven for the 4.5 hours we had to wait until boarding our flight to Atlanta. Breakfast and lunch were enjoyed as we watched planes and read books, magazines, newspapers and tablets.

The express to Jacksonville takes less than an hour. Comfortable flight and I just enjoy watching clouds pass by underneath me! I always recite Magee's poem, "High Flight" in my head as I watch them float below. 

Letreze and Bill brought me home and I spent the night in my own bed! Hurrah!

Just heard from Barbara. She's safe in Porto Alegre, Brazil, having made all her connections!! 

I'll come back in a day or two with final thoughts on this trip. Keep watching. 

Final Cape Cod Days

Yesterday was a recovery day. Barbara’s ankle twinged all day, we believe due to the stresses put on it by standing on the deck of a moving 90 ton whale watcher vessel in the relatively mild seas of Cap Cod and Massachusetts Bays. My feet and ankles were okay but my face was kind of wind/sun burned, despite the mostly cloudy day. We did final laundry and pre-packing and suitcase weighing to assure no problems with our departure.

We took a brief break to indulge in Dairy Queen Blizzards. Actually we went there to have chicken sandwiches, only to discover this franchise only does hot dogs and ice cream. Who knew?? So, dessert our dinner. It is vacation, after all.

We stopped by the Bass outlet where I found a great backpack for $19.99!!! Barbara tried on shoes but found nothing to inspire here to break out the credit card.  Right next to the Bass store was a great cranberry bog, providing the perfect backdrop for our Cape Cod selfie.

Today we started out to tour Chatham Light, only to discover there are no tours, it’s a working lighthouse and an official U.S. Coast Guard station. BUT the view of the beach at low tide was worth the drive. Check out the video clip!

Our plan to visit the Cedar Springs Herb Farm, (“7 acres of  walking trails in a organic herbal oasis”) was stymied when the entrance proclaimed it “For Sale” so open by appointment only. Sigh. Kind of resigned, we headed back to the condo.

Speaking of the condo complex, it is more than full with weekend vacations for Memorial Day, evidenced by the fact the pool is loaded with very white people swimming and lying out in the sun. Also, the traffic is now Cape Cod usual - bumper to bumper on the highways in town.  This influx of people created a line at the Pirate Cove Miniature Golf place, so we passed on it, despite planning on playing a round in honor Jean and Hilton Head. Turned out the lines were evidence of the company’s 4th annual Play for Patriots fundraiser which happens on Memorial Day weekend!

So, we cleaned up Matilda, our trust Dodge mini-van in preparation for turning her back in tomorrow, ate the last of our food stores, final packed our luggage and went to bed to rise and get on the road tomorrow by 7:00 AM. We recognize that this will put us at Logan hours before our departure times, but each of us would rather be early than miss a flight.

It’s been an excellent holiday. We’re planning an encore in 5 years - to explore more of New England!

Whale watching

We got up too early and realized we had time before leaving for our whale watching excursion, so we read. I know, we’re kind of boring, but it helps immensely to have a travel-mate who likes the same things you do.

Good thing we arrived a bit early to Hyannis Whale Watch (which operates out of the town wharf in Barnstable...welcome to quirky Cape Cod) as we discovered the past three days’ trips had been cancelled due to excessive winds, hence OUR trip now included a group of high schoolers and a flock of junior high kids from Hartford, RI. Siting onboard waiting to leave port, we learned departure was delayed indefinitely as the RI kids’ bus was having issues and they were “in transit.” Barbara and I commiserated for those teachers/chaperones as the bus must have left before dawn!

The children were chatty and kind of hyped but not a problem, once you discounted the decibel level at which they communicated. Yet another indication that I am aging!  The ship went to Stellwagen Bank in search of whales and seals. We saw three grey seals and one 60’ fin whale, which surfaced three times very close to the boat. Unfortunately I wasn’t quick enough to catch a photo. But just seeing that behemoth so close was thrilling. Jon, the naturalist on board, said the whales were kind of scattered from their usual sites as the extraordinarily rainy April (28 days with no sunshine) meant the plankton blooms were not rich and deep, so the whales had to search far afield for food. Made sense, one woman we met said her husband was just now putting his potatoes in the ground as it was finally dry enough.

Special thanks to Pat and John from Connecticut who kind of adopted Barbara and myself after she commented on their UNC sweatshirts. This wa s their 31st year making a whale watch on Stellwagen; the come to Sandwich every year the week before Memorial Day to mini-vacation and whale watch. Kind and considerate folks.

We passed the Sandy Neck Colony and the sandy Neck Lighthouse on our way to and from Barnstable Harbor.

The excursion took more than 4 hours and, even though the whale sighting was the least possible, I had a wonderful time on the ocean. When the bow spray hit and I tasted the essence of the North Atlantic, I grinned like an idiot. Chilled but not really cold, I relished the thump of the keel as it hit the rolling sea and laughed. I am a sea water baby.

We dined on seafood again - Barbara on broiled scallops the size of golf balls and me on superb swordfish!

Cranberry bogs are everywhere. Just sitting there waiting for the growing season to begin in earnest.

One thing I did realize today - I miss lilacs. The scent of them in the air took me right back to 39 Summer Street and playing in that lush lilac grove just west of the garage...our childhood Sherwood!

Lighthouses, P-town and wine

I began this morning with a swan flying in to land in the water below the window. This time, I just enjoyed the grace and elegance and did not try to capture a photo. 

Our game plan today was drive 6A to Provincetown and visit the Truro Vineyards. . We got as far as Eastham when we impulsively made a right turn into the Cape Cod National Seashore and discovered the beauty of Salt Pond. 

On a board near the pond, you’re asked to convey what you feel in 5 words. Mine were tranquil, pastoral, shimmering, inspiring and refreshing. 

The Visitors Center had a very cool topographical map of the Cape set on a raised platform in the center of the floor. Also a collection of sea shells that immediately brought to mind walks on singing and Wingarsheek beaches in my childhood. In the distance of the Salt Pond photo lies a Cape Cod house and weathered barn that added to my imaginings while standing there mesmerized by the view. 

While there we found a map of Cape lighthouses and added to our destinations for the day. First was Nauset Light. My attempt to video the beach captured a few moments of the wind surfers about 60 feet below me on the sand. And, yes, the wind was whipping that fast.  We learned that Nauset light was the North American end of the Trans-Atlantic cable that allowed electronic communication between us and Europe. The cable hut still stands, just below the lighthouse hill.   The rather typical Cape warning sign about beach erosion was prevalent throughout the day on this coast.

In Provincetown, we tried to visit Race Point Light but were stymied by road construction, so just walked the dunes for a bit.  

In downtown P-town, we walked the wharf and harbor, then took the parking lot attendant’s suggestion and dined at The Lobster Pot. We each tried a different lobster dish (Barbara - Newbury; me - Garlic Braised Cracked) OMG good!!! Plus, I tried Sean’s Bloody Mary  - excellent but the pepper combination sure cleaned out my sinus cavities! Perfect complement to the buttery lobster. We sat in the Lobster Chair on the wharf - the consummate tourists!

Aside - we learned of the fierce competition between Provincetown and Plymouth for next year’s HUGE celebration of the 400th anniversary of the Pilgrims landing in Massachusetts. I am so, so glad we didn’t plan on visiting next year. What a zoo that will be. 

Truro Winery and Vineyards was worth the trip. The wine tasting offered 10 samples. Between the two of us, we sampled all. I brought home a bottle  as did Barbara, but hers is going to Brazil as a gift and mine will probably not last until we leave Sunday morning. 

Our final stop today was Highland Lighthouse just south of P-town. This structure was moved in 1996 500’ back from the cliff edge, just like the lighthouse on the Outer Banks. The boulder in the foreground marks the original spot on which the lighthouse stood.  Maintenance didn’t allow us to climb the tower. WHAT a SHAME!! (NOT) But the walk around the grounds was brisk and enlivened by the golfers playing the Highland Links course. Brave souls. I wondered if FB played here while he was at Mass Maritime. 

A personal note: Cumberland Farms gas and food stations are still prevalent. The good things last!!

Barbara deciding which wines to sample.

Excellent day visiting Cape beaches, witness video.

Provincetown from the wharf.

Home to consume our wine. I FINISHED the 450 yard yarn unsnarl! Celebrate!!

Hannah Rebecca Burgess and previous post pictures

GRRRR! I am so frustrated! Suddenly my trusty iPad wouldn’t allow me to type any more. Sigh. I guess it’s telling me to it’s time to upgrade.

Anyway, Rebecca Burgess’ story touched me and I think it would make a great film. Rather than type it all, I’ve included the photo of it. also, the museum has a wonderful exhibit with a holographic Rebecca talking to you from her dinner table. The item in the entire museum that captivated me was this blown glass maze for marbles!  Check out the still shot and the few second of video.

Yesterday was shortened because poor Barbara’s stomach is in used to friend New England seafood and we have eaten a lot of it since we arrived here. Back to plain oatmeal and fruit.

Sorry the photos are not in order.

Barnstable, Hyannis, New Bedford and Sandwich

Hi, blog readers, it’s been a couple of days and we’ve been busy. I still haven’t solved my layout issues with the iPad, so, once again, my words will be followed by pictures instead of being intertwined with them.

Barnstable was a very pretty little town but kind of frustrating for us.  The Coast Guard Museum was closed as was the working blacksmith’s (which we both keenly wanted to visit) but were stymied until after Memorial Day. (I am really coming to loathe that phrase!)  On the upside, we found a book sale at the Sturgis Library and browsed the library for a bit. It is the oldest library building ion North America having been housed here since 1644. Needless to say, it’s been remodeled a few time since then but the essential building remains. The original library is now one room and you’re not allowed to bring anything into it - you have to check purses and backpacks to enter a room the size of a small kitchen. Still kind of cool. I could have spent a bunch on some old books but they would have weighed down my suitcase. I sometimes hate flying as it limits my purchasing power. Though that may actually be a good thing.

From Barnstable we headed down to Hyannis and the Inner Harbor. The Harbor tour boat had just left, so we ate a delicious lunch at Spanky's while watching a group gather itself for an off-shore fishing excursion. The folks going amused me as they pulled and tugged at their waterproofs and tried to adjust their fishing poles - all while snapping selfies and group shots and laughing. I love watching people having a good time!  After lunch we walked part of the Kennedy Legacy Trail, Hyannis’ version of the Freedom trail. Then we headed back of the cape Highway to Yarmouth and laundry, which was calling our names with the lure of clean clothes.

I spent the evening working on unsnarling that 450 yard skein from hell and Barbara knitted. It’s a bit daunting living with someone who goes to bed at 9:30. Fortunately, we’re used to each other nad I stocked plenty of books and audio books on my iPad.

Yesterday, we dawdled at bit over breakfast because Barbara spotted a swan in the inlet visible from our windows. We each tried for a really clear shot, as you can see below, mine did not come out well and Barbara used her camera so I can’t access those images. If you look closely at the small white blob amongst the foliage, you see a blurred image of a mute swan. I have since discovered the Swans of Yarmouth are famous in the area and not at all rare. We saw several in during the day yesterday, never at a time when we had access to a camera, usually as we were driving past a bit of water. No surprise!

New Bedford was amazing. I got to sit in Herman Melville’s pew at the Seamen’s Bethel (a corrupted version of two Jewish words which means place of worship) and look at the ship’s prow made famous in the 1956 movie version  of  MOBY DICK. I learned that the prow was only alluded to in the novel but made so famous in that movie that the leaders of New Bedford gave in to propulsion demand and created one.When we walked over to the whaling Museum, we discovered this prow was fashioned in the image of the LAGODA, read on and find out about that ship.

The Whaling Museum offers art, weaponry, tools, maps, charts and dioramas on the history and influence of that business. The selfie shows me before the outline of the tail of an adult stern whale - the tail is 16 feet across!!! Then you look up and see the skeleton above you and you aren’t surprised. The picture of me and the heart model didn’t come out but the heart comes up to my shoulder!  Another size reference is the 5’6” skeleton propped up against the sperm whale skeleton.  The lower gallery of the museum contains a one-half size replica of the whaling bark LAGODA that you an walk into. I also learned sperm whale oil is red , it looks like blood. My shot of New Bedford harbor did not turn out well, too many buildings, but I adore the one of the seagull watching Barbara take a picture. And I want these yard ornament fish that wiggled in the wind like they we’re swimming.

The Sandwich Glass Museum was enthralling. Silica that Barbara and I painted on ourselves in Iceland as a skin cream is the basis of glass!! Look closely at the blown glass bank below for the coin slot in the center. The entrance glass flower art is by Billy Mayer, no relation. We were fascinated with the story of Hannah Rebecca Burgess

Danvers to Yarmouth

Easy day. Great driving (well, for me, riding) weather - no really bright sun, not much wind, no rain. There wasn’t even much traffic south on 93 until we turned off onto 3 to visit Plymouth. The Rock was cool and the ranger giving the talk was very enthusiastic and entertaining. The Mayflower II was not in port, like much around this area, she’s not due back until after Memorial Day. (On a personal note - I never thought about how little happens in New England before Memorial Day!!)  We didn’t stay in Plymouth as the sky clouded up and we were a bit fearful of the impending storm and wanted to get to the condo before we got wet. Just look at the sky and tell me we were wrong!

We did stumble on this very nifty church in Plymouth, but did not stop to ask why they had 3 llamas penned in their front garden.

Blogging note: My iPad is not cooperating with the keyboard, so until I figure out a solution the text will appear in my posts followed by the pictures.

The bumper-to-bumper traffic bound off-Cape was an awakening for Barbara about traffic to Logan when we leave. We’re mutually agreed on a very, very early start.

Having no firm plans for our Cape Cod visit, we spent the remainder of the afternoon reading pamphlets and maps and planning. I really like our marsh view and the accompanying bird song. Our balcony has a posted note; “Please do not feed the geese.”

The Castle, The Cove and Clams

Slept like a log last night; I like this mattress much better than the expensive downtown Boston hotel we stayed in for two nights. Though I do not like that Courtyard does not offer a free breakfast. I have been spoiled by all the Hiltons I’ve stayed in but the ones around here were booked. Hence a new hotel experience. 

This morning Barbara and I found ourselves in an usual situation - we’re each used to getting up and going about our business without much to-do. Today we realized we did not have to be at Brothers’ Restaurant in Danvers until 10 and had almost two hours to kill! What to do? I tried to roll over and sleep. Nope. Then I thought about facing the task of unsnarling that skein of yarn which was so entangled even Alan Turing and the Bletchley Park team would have blanched at the task. Nope. Then I tried to read the book I’m trying to find a reason to continue; I was lured by the movie trailer to read A Small Favor. The book’s craftsmanship is good; the story line is making me mad. I really don’t want the manipulative bitch to win, so I can’t decide if reading to the end is worth it. Yay! I’ve dawdled enough that it’s time to head for breakfast with some of my high school classmates. 

Breakfast was, to my delight, wonderful. Elizabeth Aykinson, I recognized, but not Kathy Toomey, who knew me right away, as did several others. I was astounded that they remembered me at all, as my mental version of my high school self was of a complete dweeb. My Mom is up in Heaven chuckling right now, since she spent years telling me I was nuts, I did have a personality back then ... way before I realized it myself in college! Also, she would be tickled to know Kathy Toomey is still making her Blueberry Muffins!! Now I kind of wish I could have figured a way to attend that 50th reunion. There’ll be others. 

(Note: I’m feeling my age as I write this because I neglected to write down the names of everyone at the breakfast and now can’t recall who said what. Sigh! My hope is that they do contact me on FaceBook so I can edit this blog post and keep in touch.)

We meandered 127 down the coast, talking about when we drove the Costa Brava along the Mediterranean in Spain and wandered through olive groves and up mountains. Same scenario - Barbara driving and me navigating. 

Hammond Castle was all I remembered and more. When I was there as a kid, I never paid much attention to the historical details, I just gawked at the CASTLE. I am awed by what John Hammond accomplished - I never actually thought about who invented and patented the mobile home! Or that the mobile home is exactly as old as I am! I bet Dad knew about Hammond’s radio controlled boat and submarine from the 1920’s. I wish this man could have shared an afternoon with Elon Musk!!!  But what a sardonic human - to have only left-handed stair rails in his home because he was not about to cede control to the right-handed universe! Barbara is very intrigued with him, who wouldn't be after all he owned the skull of one of Coumbus' crew!! And the largest home electronically enhanced pipe organ in the hemisphere. The visit was a huge success and would have lasted longer but for the wedding scheduled in the garden this afternoon.

From the Castle we continued on 127 to The Paper House in Rockport. we were astounded to discover the place empty but boasting this notice, “Today you’re on your honor not to touch anything and to leave your admission fee in the mailbox.”  OMG!!! We must have spent 30 minutes remarking on the craftsmanship and creativity of the place. Not just all the furniture but the window shades and the wall paper are made from newspaper!! I had warned Barbara that I remembered it being tiny, it is; nonetheless, it is awe-inspiring what a determined man can achieve and what a dedicated family can continue to offer to a wondering public. If you ever have the chance, please visit this treasure! 

We intended to drive through Rockport to have lobster rolls at Salty’s and walk around looking at Motif #1, but were distracted by a stop at Folly Cove Landing. I am certain it is not a place I’d want to scuba because the tides look cold and  rough and I’ve become kind of a Florida girl about cold water.  Returning to the car, we decided we wanted clams so headed for Woodman’s in Essex. Barbara actually ate a clam plate, matched me onion ring for onion ring and clam for clam! She even posed for a picture with the Giant Clam AND she pulled out into traffic like a true New Englander when it came time to exit that parking lot!!!

We tried to see the Crane Estate Castle Hill in Ipswich but, again, were stymied by a wedding. I really can’t be upset. It’s been the first warm sunny weekend in over a month according to my local sources, so good luck to the brides and grooms! 

It was a good day, though we didn’t earn our steps as we were in the car, but after 3 days of between 17,000 and 9,000 steps, we’re taking today’s mild number in stride. (Yes, I know it’s an awful pun, but I just couldn’t help it!)

Tonight is about getting ready to get back on the road again. It’s been a good idea to stay at the one hotel for our North Shore tour. But packing up again is a pain! 

Oh, and according to my DHS classmates, the Endicott Pear Tree DOES still exist and still bears fruit, but the road to it is obscured by the Mass General Hospital construction.  

I leave today with two thoughts: laughter is contagious at a high school reunion and varnished newspaper makes intriguing wallpaper!

PS: I finshed that book. GRRRR. 'Nuff said!