This was a day for just "cruising the river". We passed through the Cascade Locks, but going up and down a lock was kind of old hat by now, so we spent most of the morning sitting on the upper stern deck breathing fresh mountain air and listening to nature.
Saturday, September 24, 2022
River Cruise Day 7: Camas & Washougal, WA
Friday, September 23, 2022
River Cruise Day 6: Stevenson, OR
Today, we toured the Bonneville Dam. On our way to the dam, our local guide shared a wonderful story as we drove past the entrance to The Bridge of the Gods. The scientific facts are that the retreating ice age glaciers left a land bridge over this narrow section of the Columbia which in pre-historic times collapsed, forming rapids. The Native American version is the King of the Gods was angry with his two adult sons fighting over who was going to succeed him, so he shot an arrow to the north and told one son to go rule that side of the river. The second arrow flew and the other son was told to rule there. For a while, life was wonderful, THEN both sons fell in love with the same woman and their sibling antagonism became rampant. The King had had it. He turned one son into Mt. Hood and the other son into Mt. Adam and smashed the land bridge. Mora;: Do not tick off your Dad.
At the actual dam, we saw the 8 generators, five had their lightbulbs lit indicating they were on-line. Turbine tidbit: Bonneville uses a Kaplan adjustable Turbine that looks like a vertical propeller with adjustable pitch blades instead of a paddlewheel.
Then we toured the series of open flues built into the dam as a “fish passage” in lieu of a fish ladder for the upstream spawning-ground-bound river denizens. Truthfully, we didn’t tour the flues, we walked along top of them trying to see the fish through the dark water.
Through the viewing windows we saw Shad (an invasive species that is causing serious problems for the native fish), Lamprey eels, Steelhead, Coho, and Chinook. Bonneville has both a human counting fish and a computer counting fish: the human counts types of fish as the computer tallies numbers. Just look at the 2021 totals for this one dam.
Personal comment: it is extremely difficult to get a really good picture of rapidly moving fish when you're viewing them through several inches of semi-reflective glass.

Back aboard, we grabbed drinks from the bar and went up to the River Grille patio deck to relax after our “strenuous” (not!) day. I selfied me and the paddlewheel while Barbara was entranced by the sunset over the Gorge.
In our cabin, after getting ready for dinner, we sat on our deck watching the windsurfers and sailboats enjoying the wind hurtling through this narrowest part of the Columbia Gorge.
Then we heard a noise, looked over our railing and spied Paul, our ship's Watchman starting to climb the rope ladder to the lowest deck while Oppo one of the engineers held the lifeboat steady to the hull. As we turned to leave, a local day ferry hove into view. Lots to see on the river.
We are really chilling out, relaxing on this trip. The slowness of our steaming makes the land just drift by and neither of us worry about time or responsibilities for hours.
This is much more restful than an ocean cruise. Neither of us remembers a time when we savored a cocktail before dinner every night in no big rush to eat.
Thursday, September 22, 2022
River Cruise Day 5: The Dalles
The Dalles is the end of the overland Oregon Trail. It was here that travelers had to make THE Decision: to continue over land or to put their wagons and belongings on rafts and chance the Columbia River rapids. Neither was a safe choice.
We steamed into The Dalles about an hour late due to an unexpected uptick in tug/barge traffic at the lock just above The Dalles. Rounding the bend in the river, anchored off shore we came upon the Lindblad/National Geographic ship Quest. According to our riverlorian, she spends the summers in Alaska and is on her re-positioning cruise to her winter home in the Sea of Cortez and the Baja Peninsula. One of my dreams is to take the National Geographic cruise to the Galapagos.
It calls to mind Erebor, the Lonely Mountain of Tolkein's Dwarf kingdom.
Our first stop this morning was the Columbia Basin Interpretive Center. The Lewis and Clark expedition exhibition was inspiring. This full-size replica canoe stunned me. How uncomfortable the men must have been to kneel on bare wood for hours. Plus, it is rather narrow and (according the docent on hand) very prone to tipping over! The traveling in one for months would be bad enough, but I cannot imagine emptying the scraped wooden canoe, then having to portage it through the shoreline growth! It must have taken 10 men; it is heavy and unwieldy. My respect for the perseverance and the dedication of the men of the Lewis and Clark’s Company is boundless.
The Center’s floor contains a marble inlay interpretation of the Columbia River. On it I found Barbara ’s dad’s hometown of White Salmon…made sure she saw it!
When I walked off the gangway into the reception area of the Empress, I was more than ready to meet up with Barbara and tell her about my new neon-obsession and hear about her shopping trip. I was not expecting to see her waiting for me holding my little brown bag of gifts I’d lost yesterday! She was grinning ear to ear as she related the story: The museum found my bag just about the same time the Guest Services Director read my email. The ship was called and the Purser’s Office confirmed I was a passenger. My bag was handed to the driver of the last Hop On/Hop Off bus who delivered it to the Purser’s Office where it sat as the ship prepared for departure. This morning a message was delivered to the room while Barbara and I were out. She decided to watch my face as she held up the bag.
I so appreciate the way life delivers you little bursts of joy!
Barbara and I celebrated with two pre-dinner cocktails in the Paddlewheel lounge while listening to Marcus tickle the ivories in delightful renditions of Scott Joplin songs. Neither of us are big drinkers which was evident when after dinner (and wine) we were asleep within 90 minutes of returning to 324.
Wednesday, September 21, 2022
River Cruise Day 4: Richland and Pasco WA
I find picturesque subjects everywhere I look. I often wonder what people overlook while they have their faces buried in cell phones or newspapers.
We should look around us, not searching for dangers, but to find the unexpected little gems that should brighten our days or focus our thoughts on something different.
Today, our Hop On/Hop Off tour took us the REACH Museum. REACH is the term for an unobstructed stretch of water and this 50+ miles of the Columbia is the only section of that waterway which is open and un-dammed.
The museum includes a significant section on the Hanford Nuclear Facility, the plant that created the plutonium core of the bomb we dropped on Nagasaki. I was familiar with a lot of what was shared as I read The Girls of Atomic City several years ago about the creation of the nuclear plant at Oakridge. Hanford was on an even larger scale; at its height, employing 55,000 people.
Several aspects intrigued me. After bringing hundreds of Airstream trailers to house the workers, Permanent homes were offered to upper-level employees. 19 floor plans were offered, each floor plan designated by a letter, hence the sobriquet “Alphabet Home.” Each letter home was assigned the same block. The homes that remain from this settlement are now prized possessions.
The Metabulator jolted me. It offers, again, proof that our precedents were definitely as mechanically ingenious as we 21st century folk believe we are. True, it took them a complex, slightly massive machine to achieve what we do with a FitBit or Apple watch, but nonetheless, they were there first.
On a walk to the ship’s gift shop Barbara and I found a collection of Faberge works of art donated by Tatiana Faberge. After gawking and exclaiming for minutes, B and I, we retired to 324, napped, chatted, read for a bit. I went down to Paddlewheel Lounge to update this blog.