Lighthouses, P-town and wine

I began this morning with a swan flying in to land in the water below the window. This time, I just enjoyed the grace and elegance and did not try to capture a photo. 

Our game plan today was drive 6A to Provincetown and visit the Truro Vineyards. . We got as far as Eastham when we impulsively made a right turn into the Cape Cod National Seashore and discovered the beauty of Salt Pond. 

On a board near the pond, you’re asked to convey what you feel in 5 words. Mine were tranquil, pastoral, shimmering, inspiring and refreshing. 

The Visitors Center had a very cool topographical map of the Cape set on a raised platform in the center of the floor. Also a collection of sea shells that immediately brought to mind walks on singing and Wingarsheek beaches in my childhood. In the distance of the Salt Pond photo lies a Cape Cod house and weathered barn that added to my imaginings while standing there mesmerized by the view. 

While there we found a map of Cape lighthouses and added to our destinations for the day. First was Nauset Light. My attempt to video the beach captured a few moments of the wind surfers about 60 feet below me on the sand. And, yes, the wind was whipping that fast.  We learned that Nauset light was the North American end of the Trans-Atlantic cable that allowed electronic communication between us and Europe. The cable hut still stands, just below the lighthouse hill.   The rather typical Cape warning sign about beach erosion was prevalent throughout the day on this coast.

In Provincetown, we tried to visit Race Point Light but were stymied by road construction, so just walked the dunes for a bit.  

In downtown P-town, we walked the wharf and harbor, then took the parking lot attendant’s suggestion and dined at The Lobster Pot. We each tried a different lobster dish (Barbara - Newbury; me - Garlic Braised Cracked) OMG good!!! Plus, I tried Sean’s Bloody Mary  - excellent but the pepper combination sure cleaned out my sinus cavities! Perfect complement to the buttery lobster. We sat in the Lobster Chair on the wharf - the consummate tourists!

Aside - we learned of the fierce competition between Provincetown and Plymouth for next year’s HUGE celebration of the 400th anniversary of the Pilgrims landing in Massachusetts. I am so, so glad we didn’t plan on visiting next year. What a zoo that will be. 

Truro Winery and Vineyards was worth the trip. The wine tasting offered 10 samples. Between the two of us, we sampled all. I brought home a bottle  as did Barbara, but hers is going to Brazil as a gift and mine will probably not last until we leave Sunday morning. 

Our final stop today was Highland Lighthouse just south of P-town. This structure was moved in 1996 500’ back from the cliff edge, just like the lighthouse on the Outer Banks. The boulder in the foreground marks the original spot on which the lighthouse stood.  Maintenance didn’t allow us to climb the tower. WHAT a SHAME!! (NOT) But the walk around the grounds was brisk and enlivened by the golfers playing the Highland Links course. Brave souls. I wondered if FB played here while he was at Mass Maritime. 

A personal note: Cumberland Farms gas and food stations are still prevalent. The good things last!!

Barbara deciding which wines to sample.

Excellent day visiting Cape beaches, witness video.

Provincetown from the wharf.

Home to consume our wine. I FINISHED the 450 yard yarn unsnarl! Celebrate!!

Hannah Rebecca Burgess and previous post pictures

GRRRR! I am so frustrated! Suddenly my trusty iPad wouldn’t allow me to type any more. Sigh. I guess it’s telling me to it’s time to upgrade.

Anyway, Rebecca Burgess’ story touched me and I think it would make a great film. Rather than type it all, I’ve included the photo of it. also, the museum has a wonderful exhibit with a holographic Rebecca talking to you from her dinner table. The item in the entire museum that captivated me was this blown glass maze for marbles!  Check out the still shot and the few second of video.

Yesterday was shortened because poor Barbara’s stomach is in used to friend New England seafood and we have eaten a lot of it since we arrived here. Back to plain oatmeal and fruit.

Sorry the photos are not in order.

Barnstable, Hyannis, New Bedford and Sandwich

Hi, blog readers, it’s been a couple of days and we’ve been busy. I still haven’t solved my layout issues with the iPad, so, once again, my words will be followed by pictures instead of being intertwined with them.

Barnstable was a very pretty little town but kind of frustrating for us.  The Coast Guard Museum was closed as was the working blacksmith’s (which we both keenly wanted to visit) but were stymied until after Memorial Day. (I am really coming to loathe that phrase!)  On the upside, we found a book sale at the Sturgis Library and browsed the library for a bit. It is the oldest library building ion North America having been housed here since 1644. Needless to say, it’s been remodeled a few time since then but the essential building remains. The original library is now one room and you’re not allowed to bring anything into it - you have to check purses and backpacks to enter a room the size of a small kitchen. Still kind of cool. I could have spent a bunch on some old books but they would have weighed down my suitcase. I sometimes hate flying as it limits my purchasing power. Though that may actually be a good thing.

From Barnstable we headed down to Hyannis and the Inner Harbor. The Harbor tour boat had just left, so we ate a delicious lunch at Spanky's while watching a group gather itself for an off-shore fishing excursion. The folks going amused me as they pulled and tugged at their waterproofs and tried to adjust their fishing poles - all while snapping selfies and group shots and laughing. I love watching people having a good time!  After lunch we walked part of the Kennedy Legacy Trail, Hyannis’ version of the Freedom trail. Then we headed back of the cape Highway to Yarmouth and laundry, which was calling our names with the lure of clean clothes.

I spent the evening working on unsnarling that 450 yard skein from hell and Barbara knitted. It’s a bit daunting living with someone who goes to bed at 9:30. Fortunately, we’re used to each other nad I stocked plenty of books and audio books on my iPad.

Yesterday, we dawdled at bit over breakfast because Barbara spotted a swan in the inlet visible from our windows. We each tried for a really clear shot, as you can see below, mine did not come out well and Barbara used her camera so I can’t access those images. If you look closely at the small white blob amongst the foliage, you see a blurred image of a mute swan. I have since discovered the Swans of Yarmouth are famous in the area and not at all rare. We saw several in during the day yesterday, never at a time when we had access to a camera, usually as we were driving past a bit of water. No surprise!

New Bedford was amazing. I got to sit in Herman Melville’s pew at the Seamen’s Bethel (a corrupted version of two Jewish words which means place of worship) and look at the ship’s prow made famous in the 1956 movie version  of  MOBY DICK. I learned that the prow was only alluded to in the novel but made so famous in that movie that the leaders of New Bedford gave in to propulsion demand and created one.When we walked over to the whaling Museum, we discovered this prow was fashioned in the image of the LAGODA, read on and find out about that ship.

The Whaling Museum offers art, weaponry, tools, maps, charts and dioramas on the history and influence of that business. The selfie shows me before the outline of the tail of an adult stern whale - the tail is 16 feet across!!! Then you look up and see the skeleton above you and you aren’t surprised. The picture of me and the heart model didn’t come out but the heart comes up to my shoulder!  Another size reference is the 5’6” skeleton propped up against the sperm whale skeleton.  The lower gallery of the museum contains a one-half size replica of the whaling bark LAGODA that you an walk into. I also learned sperm whale oil is red , it looks like blood. My shot of New Bedford harbor did not turn out well, too many buildings, but I adore the one of the seagull watching Barbara take a picture. And I want these yard ornament fish that wiggled in the wind like they we’re swimming.

The Sandwich Glass Museum was enthralling. Silica that Barbara and I painted on ourselves in Iceland as a skin cream is the basis of glass!! Look closely at the blown glass bank below for the coin slot in the center. The entrance glass flower art is by Billy Mayer, no relation. We were fascinated with the story of Hannah Rebecca Burgess

Danvers to Yarmouth

Easy day. Great driving (well, for me, riding) weather - no really bright sun, not much wind, no rain. There wasn’t even much traffic south on 93 until we turned off onto 3 to visit Plymouth. The Rock was cool and the ranger giving the talk was very enthusiastic and entertaining. The Mayflower II was not in port, like much around this area, she’s not due back until after Memorial Day. (On a personal note - I never thought about how little happens in New England before Memorial Day!!)  We didn’t stay in Plymouth as the sky clouded up and we were a bit fearful of the impending storm and wanted to get to the condo before we got wet. Just look at the sky and tell me we were wrong!

We did stumble on this very nifty church in Plymouth, but did not stop to ask why they had 3 llamas penned in their front garden.

Blogging note: My iPad is not cooperating with the keyboard, so until I figure out a solution the text will appear in my posts followed by the pictures.

The bumper-to-bumper traffic bound off-Cape was an awakening for Barbara about traffic to Logan when we leave. We’re mutually agreed on a very, very early start.

Having no firm plans for our Cape Cod visit, we spent the remainder of the afternoon reading pamphlets and maps and planning. I really like our marsh view and the accompanying bird song. Our balcony has a posted note; “Please do not feed the geese.”

The Castle, The Cove and Clams

Slept like a log last night; I like this mattress much better than the expensive downtown Boston hotel we stayed in for two nights. Though I do not like that Courtyard does not offer a free breakfast. I have been spoiled by all the Hiltons I’ve stayed in but the ones around here were booked. Hence a new hotel experience. 

This morning Barbara and I found ourselves in an usual situation - we’re each used to getting up and going about our business without much to-do. Today we realized we did not have to be at Brothers’ Restaurant in Danvers until 10 and had almost two hours to kill! What to do? I tried to roll over and sleep. Nope. Then I thought about facing the task of unsnarling that skein of yarn which was so entangled even Alan Turing and the Bletchley Park team would have blanched at the task. Nope. Then I tried to read the book I’m trying to find a reason to continue; I was lured by the movie trailer to read A Small Favor. The book’s craftsmanship is good; the story line is making me mad. I really don’t want the manipulative bitch to win, so I can’t decide if reading to the end is worth it. Yay! I’ve dawdled enough that it’s time to head for breakfast with some of my high school classmates. 

Breakfast was, to my delight, wonderful. Elizabeth Aykinson, I recognized, but not Kathy Toomey, who knew me right away, as did several others. I was astounded that they remembered me at all, as my mental version of my high school self was of a complete dweeb. My Mom is up in Heaven chuckling right now, since she spent years telling me I was nuts, I did have a personality back then ... way before I realized it myself in college! Also, she would be tickled to know Kathy Toomey is still making her Blueberry Muffins!! Now I kind of wish I could have figured a way to attend that 50th reunion. There’ll be others. 

(Note: I’m feeling my age as I write this because I neglected to write down the names of everyone at the breakfast and now can’t recall who said what. Sigh! My hope is that they do contact me on FaceBook so I can edit this blog post and keep in touch.)

We meandered 127 down the coast, talking about when we drove the Costa Brava along the Mediterranean in Spain and wandered through olive groves and up mountains. Same scenario - Barbara driving and me navigating. 

Hammond Castle was all I remembered and more. When I was there as a kid, I never paid much attention to the historical details, I just gawked at the CASTLE. I am awed by what John Hammond accomplished - I never actually thought about who invented and patented the mobile home! Or that the mobile home is exactly as old as I am! I bet Dad knew about Hammond’s radio controlled boat and submarine from the 1920’s. I wish this man could have shared an afternoon with Elon Musk!!!  But what a sardonic human - to have only left-handed stair rails in his home because he was not about to cede control to the right-handed universe! Barbara is very intrigued with him, who wouldn't be after all he owned the skull of one of Coumbus' crew!! And the largest home electronically enhanced pipe organ in the hemisphere. The visit was a huge success and would have lasted longer but for the wedding scheduled in the garden this afternoon.

From the Castle we continued on 127 to The Paper House in Rockport. we were astounded to discover the place empty but boasting this notice, “Today you’re on your honor not to touch anything and to leave your admission fee in the mailbox.”  OMG!!! We must have spent 30 minutes remarking on the craftsmanship and creativity of the place. Not just all the furniture but the window shades and the wall paper are made from newspaper!! I had warned Barbara that I remembered it being tiny, it is; nonetheless, it is awe-inspiring what a determined man can achieve and what a dedicated family can continue to offer to a wondering public. If you ever have the chance, please visit this treasure! 

We intended to drive through Rockport to have lobster rolls at Salty’s and walk around looking at Motif #1, but were distracted by a stop at Folly Cove Landing. I am certain it is not a place I’d want to scuba because the tides look cold and  rough and I’ve become kind of a Florida girl about cold water.  Returning to the car, we decided we wanted clams so headed for Woodman’s in Essex. Barbara actually ate a clam plate, matched me onion ring for onion ring and clam for clam! She even posed for a picture with the Giant Clam AND she pulled out into traffic like a true New Englander when it came time to exit that parking lot!!!

We tried to see the Crane Estate Castle Hill in Ipswich but, again, were stymied by a wedding. I really can’t be upset. It’s been the first warm sunny weekend in over a month according to my local sources, so good luck to the brides and grooms! 

It was a good day, though we didn’t earn our steps as we were in the car, but after 3 days of between 17,000 and 9,000 steps, we’re taking today’s mild number in stride. (Yes, I know it’s an awful pun, but I just couldn’t help it!)

Tonight is about getting ready to get back on the road again. It’s been a good idea to stay at the one hotel for our North Shore tour. But packing up again is a pain! 

Oh, and according to my DHS classmates, the Endicott Pear Tree DOES still exist and still bears fruit, but the road to it is obscured by the Mass General Hospital construction.  

I leave today with two thoughts: laughter is contagious at a high school reunion and varnished newspaper makes intriguing wallpaper!

PS: I finshed that book. GRRRR. 'Nuff said!

Salem

I jinxed us when I noted the great weather we've been experiencing. we woke to rain, well, not Florida rain, but New England drizzle. Good thing I packed two umbrellas, as Barbara's jacket has no hoodie.

The weather kept us abed later than usual, plus the Peabody Essex Museum did not open until 10, so need to get up and about early. We arrived just as the Museum opened and I tried to smile when I discovered that all those wonderful treasures I rememebred (the mummy, the Shinto shrine, the scrimshaw Lord's Prayer and more) were packed away in storage. One docent even had to hunt for a man who recalled the elephant tusk doorway! Everyone assured me that many would be back on display once the new wing was completed by the end of this year.  (I knew I needed to be adult about it, but I felt like someone had gut-punched me. "You really can't go home again" was my mental mantra while Barbara and I wandered the exhibits that are there - mostly Oriental art and 18th century furnishing. None of the wonders Salem's world-voyaging captains brought back to entice and amaze their neighbors. The world is dimmer place now. Only twice did my heart-memory kick - first when we visited the lounge of Thomas Crowninshield's yacht Cleopatra's Barge, which is memory serve me he intended to rescue Napoleon from his exile; second - when I accidentally walked into the East India Maritime Hall, though all that remains are the ships' figureheads.

At the Museum, I did see two things that tickled my fancy. One was a pair of porcelain sculptures from China (I think Nagasaki) when the Dutch were trying to gain a toehold in the Orient that caused me to quip,"Who knew? Even back then Republicans and Democrats were belligerent." The other was walking into the restroom to find a geisha getting herself ready for a performance in the Chinese House exhibit in the museum.

From the museum, we walked past the Salem Witch Memorial and its adjoining burying ground, but could find no graves from that era. I explained to Barbara about Danvers being Salem Village and where Rebecca Nurse and John Proctor lived.  Later in the day, we took a brief tour of Wadsworth Cemetery in Danvers, but, once again, I could not find those three 1630's gravestones that so mesmerized me as a child. Though I did find "snowballs" again. I still have no idea what type of flowering shrub/tree they are, but I immediately regressed to age 8!!

Then off to Central Wharf. There we found the Friendship, returned to Salem after a three year absence. We couldn't board her, nor could we view the Customs House as both are closed until Memorial Day. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the walk down the wharf line and the view of the harbor until the windy rain drove us away.(Still not Florida rain.)

On our walk through the sculpture garden, I spotted this very cool tree. Any ideas as to its name?  The pic on the right is a close up of its leaves. I really do need to become more of a plant person. My friend Jean has the right idea - find an app that names plants by their leaves. Unfortunately, I never think of that when I'm home, because I just call her and she knows! Helps to know a Master Gardener!!

Back in Danvers, I began to feel a bit more of "home" as Maple Street School and the Congregational Church appeared. The Achenbach's house looked the same. Summer Street still has its maple trees, though it's now almost a subdivision. 39 looks pretty much like a remember it, though smaller. All the homes that dot the fields and groves were no real surprise. The Prep looked the same, but more so. We lunched at Putnam Pantry. As we were leaving I remarked to Barbara that I was so glad it looked and smelled the same. The woman ringing up my purchases said how pleased she was to hear that as often people complained about new paint or different furniture arrangement. I told her that the Pantry was part of life younger life as Wink and Sally Emerson had been parental friends and my first ride in a luxury car had been in Wink's Avanti. She laughed and said, "They're my grandparents!"

The day ended on a definite high. Deb Siegel Kumar was one of my Interact kids who graduated from Middleburg High in 1988. She lives in Beverly and when she read on FB that I'd be in the area, we agreed to meet for dinner at Nick's Famous Roast Beef. We did and it was wonderful! I feel like I have re-found a kindred spirit! The time sped by and I wish we'd had longer together. Plus the sandwich and the onion rings were as fabulous as I remembered!

A day that began in drizzle with disappointment ended in bright sunshine with a feeling of camaraderie. Yes!!